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Friday, March 20, 2026
Courthouse News Service
Friday, March 20, 2026 | Back issues
Courthouse News Service Courthouse News Service

On the darkest streets of Tijuana, the enfermeros tácticos administer a shot of hope

At the frontlines of the drug crisis, Marck Rivera and his group of volunteer EMTs practice harm-reduction in the streets of the maligned border city.

TIJUANA, Mexico (CN) — On a January night in Tijuana's Zona Norte, the Enfermeros Tácticos del Bordo, or the Tactical EMTs of El Bordo, organized their supplies for the shift ahead: clean syringes, penicillin and antibiotic injections, bandages, gauze, medical scissors and over-the-counter painkillers.

The group gets its name, El Bordo, from the system of sewage runoff canals that flow through the city. It is a place where many struggling addicts have set up shop, living inside dry tunnels amid ghostly graffiti-covered walls.

Zona Norte, a red light district predicated on American vice, and its surrounding El Bordo canals, are a 15-minute walk from San Ysidro, the busiest border crossing between Mexico and the United States.

"The homeland begins here," reads the Federal Highway 1 sign into Mexico.

Marck Rivera, the leader of the Enfermeros Tácticos, works as a waiter and clears out properties as his day job. Up to four times a week, his team of volunteers does night patrols of drug hot spots where users live on the street. On this night, his team consists of seven young people.

They practice widely-accepted harm-reduction tactics, such as distribution of clean syringes to help prevent the spread of HIV amongst intravenous drug users, administration of penicillin and antibiotics to people who may be suffering from bacterial infections and treatment of other physical ailments and wounds.

The Enfermeros Tácticos drain an abscess from a man in Zona Norte, Tijuana, Mexico, on the night of Jan. 7, 2026. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

In front of a chain-link fence surrounding the parking lot of an American big-box store, dozens of people were on the sidewalk in makeshift tents and cardboard boxes.

Some were eating soup distributed from a family out of their van; some were shooting up fentanyl, a drug that has uniquely affected the border region in Mexico. Two young men prepared their needles with fentanyl and plunged themselves into oblivion. They lay down on their backs, their feet towards the moonlit sky.

One of the young men, Luis Felipe from Baja California, has been in and out of drug rehabilitation centers for years.

"But then I kept falling, and here I am," he confessed, his face silhouetted by a street lamp.

Suddenly, the team surrounded a man writhing in pain, calling out to them. One volunteer pointed a flashlight at the man's back, exposing a swollen infection.

"These kinds of wounds here in Mexico are called 'welts,' but medically they're called abscesses. This gives him a fever and prevents him from getting up, from working to earn money. He's been lying here for about three or four days now. He could get sick with something, and if the ambulance comes, they won't take him," observed Rivera, gesturing to the man.

Rivera explained why he performs these trips at night and not during the day.

"During the day, my brother here may be doing well; he could be out and about, but then it's harder to find him," Rivera said, taking out his medical scissors to snip open the pus-filled abscess, while one of his team members held the man's hand.

Marck Rivera and a volunteer drain an abscess from a man's back in Zona Norte, Tijuana, Mexico, on the night of Jan. 7, 2026. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

"This white stuff is the bacterial colony, that's what I have to remove. It's a worm-like white pus. If I don't remove it, the pus will grow back again. It's a pus factory, all of it," explained Rivera, in between singing a children's song.

Though Rivera's goal for patients is long-term rehabilitation, he expressed regret over the most extreme cases — those who may not be able to find help in the long run.

"Often, patients like this one, in a few months, might be classified as patients for dignified death protocols, which means they begin to suffer in the street due to an illness that may be too far gone. They're no longer being taken by the ambulance, the hospital won't admit them, because they're considered a lost cause, and they have to prioritize other emergencies. So, the only thing left for me to do is take them to an anexo, or a shelter, so they can try to detox or, if not, die a dignified death," said Rivera. "Everyone deserves to die under a roof, just like everyone else."

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Generally, anexos are clandestinely-run drug rehab centers. Patients who enter anexos are usually sent there by force. Rivera explained that dignified death protocols should only be the very last resort, when people's illnesses completely overtake them, or they begin acting violently toward themselves and others.

"We can only address the consequences of drug use, since whoever wants to buy, whoever wants to use, can do whatever they want, that's not my problem," Rivera said. "I'm only here to help people with the consequences of drug use."

Rivera was born in Culiacán, Sinaloa, and at the age of 11, ran away from home to Mexicali, Baja California, and lived on the streets there doing odd jobs. At 14, his mom found him and forced him into youth military training. After serving in the military and the Federal Police, he moved to Tijuana's Zona Norte at 18 years old, and it was in the concrete labyrinth of El Bordo where he was quickly consumed by an addiction to crystal meth.

"As soon as I got out, I looked for my ex-girlfriend who I had gotten pregnant. I had never met my daughter. I fell hard into drugs. I married, I was a drug addict. I had children while I was a drug addict, and we split up while I was a drug addict," lamented Rivera.

"This corner right here is where they caught me. I spat in a policeman's face after a fight, and they sent me to prison," he said, pointing to where he was arrested in 2012. He was sentenced to six years.

Rivera, now 45 years old, worked in the prison infirmary, where he picked up the medical knowledge he uses with the Enfermeros Tácticos, which he started in 2017 and finances out of his own pocket, supplemented by donations.

"I challenged myself in prison. That was my rehabilitation center. There I learned more about nursing and psychiatry, including lab work, radiology and other things. And that's why I came back to this place when I returned. I originally came back intending to use again, but I saw that it wasn't what I wanted anymore," Rivera said.

Stories from El Bordo

Carlos Hernández Vargas receives clean syringes, or cuetes, on the night of Jan. 7, 2026 in Zona Norte, Tijuana, Mexico. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

Further along that night's route, a man in a T-shirt with a picture of Tijuana's iconic zebra-painted donkey emerged from the dim street to accept clean needles from Rivera. Carlos Hernández Vargas had been on the street for only four days.

"I separated from my wife and came here so I could forget about her, but I've been addicted to heroin since I was 18 and I'm 45 now," said Hernández Vargas.

"I met her at the same company where I was working," he said. "But lately, I realized the manager was involved with her. I couldn't beat the crap out of him because we were at work. I would have looked bad, and she would have looked bad, and the thing is, I couldn't take a shot at the guy because he was the boss, well, if I hit him, all the workers were going to jump me. So what I did was quit. And when I quit, I started coming here again."

Heather, whom everyone calls “Pinkie,” cradled her pet rabbit. Originally from North Carolina, she has lived in Tijuana for nine years and on the streets for two.

"Pinkie" with her pet rabbit in Zona Norte, Tijuana, Mexico, on the night of Jan. 7, 2026. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

"I came down here with my husband. Things didn't work out. He showed his tail," she laughed. "Anywhere's the same. It's tough here sometimes; sometimes it's not. It could be a lot worse, even for all of this. I sell clothes. I drink, so I gotta go get a bottle every day. That's a typical day," Pinkie said.

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In an alleyway further along the route, Victor Gutiérrez talked about a welt he had that Rivera treated.

Victor Gutiérrez and Marck Rivera in Zona Norte, Tijuana, Mexico, on the night of Jan. 7, 2026. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

"A lot of people won't even come close to us; they won't talk to us, they won't deal with us. I don't know if it's out of fear or just hatred or what, but thanks to Rivera, I am here, I am still alive and I give thanks to him and his team," Victor Gutiérrez said.

The team crossed into El Bordo. A police truck rolled by and asked what they were up to. The situation was resolved cordially, with a salute from both sides.

José Cardenas, "boss of the tunnels," sits with his dog in El Bordo, Tijuana, Mexico, on the night of Jan. 7, 2026. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

At 1 a.m., Rivera lined up his team in the middle of the dried-out concrete canal. He gave a speech like a drill sergeant.

"Remember that in the places we go, many people treat us with contempt. Many people see us as their enemies. That's why it's very important that you don't let your guard down. It's very important that you treat people with respect, the same respect that you have received from these people. That same respect that you should give them. As you know, we operate on a self-governing system here, and we must respect that system that operates," shouted Rivera to his "soldiers," as he calls them.

"Doubts?" he roared.

"None!" the volunteers roared back in unison, saluting under the very overpass where Rivera's life spiraled out of control so many years ago.

"All for the love of Mexico, all for the love of medicine. At the service of society, no doubts, God willing," the group proclaimed.

"We don't have an office, but we have a damn heart, and not even the government can stop it. And we don't depend on anyone to do our work. Thanks to God and with the cooperation of the community and with the jobs we have, we can continue providing this service," boomed Rivera.

"Doubts?"

"None!"

The Castle by the Sea

Aprovechando Las Oportunidades, otherwise known as The Castle, in Tijuana, Mexico, on Jan. 8, 2026. (William Savinar/ Courthouse News)

Aprovechando Las Oportunidades, or Making the Most of Opportunities, sits high up on a hill in an isolated neighborhood on the outskirts of Tijuana, facing the Pacific Ocean. Far away from Zona Norte, one would have to walk for miles down unpaved roads if tempted to end their sobriety.

Known as "The Castle," the drug rehab center espouses more progressive policies than a traditional anexo. It can accommodate up to 80 people, most of whom were admitted in the most extreme situations after living on the streets.

It is self-governing, meaning that everyone who lives there also works there. The center considers work, group therapy and good hygiene the foundations for recovery, referring to them as occupational therapy. There are three group therapy sessions a day, in a big room considered the crown jewel, painted with motivational phrases.

The two directors charge 800 pesos a week, or about $45, for each person who stays at The Castle. However, the people Rivera brings tend to receive steep discounts. With particularly low-income families, Rivera asks that they contribute what they can, whether it's toilet paper, bleach or dish soap.

The most extreme cases — patients who experience violence in their home, are mentally ill or victims of physical and psychological abuse — tend to receive free stays.

Rivera checks for signs of infection from being barefoot in sewage water in Tijuana, Mexico, on Jan. 8, 2026 at The Castle. He was found days before inside a concrete construction pipe near El Bordo. (William Savinar/ Courthouse News)

Rivera also takes drug users who have committed acts of violence and other traumas to The Castle. Those patients are tasked with a punishment such as cleaning the shared toilets with toothbrushes and peeling hundreds of green tomatoes for 15 days straight.

Rivera gives the people he takes to The Castle three months to get back on their feet. He also checks up on them frequently to see how they're doing.

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The Castle strictly prohibits drug use. Residents soon learn recovery takes a lifetime of work, with some living out the rest of their lives within the center. Some former residents have become members of the Enfermeros Tácticos and dedicate themselves to helping others who struggle with the same issues.

The first floor is manned by two bosses — residents promoted within — to maintain order. They intervene when someone commits an infraction, like stealing a cell phone, not bathing enough or engaging in physical altercations with other patients.

José Enrique Espinoza, one of the bosses of The Castle, on Jan. 8, 2026. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

José Enrique Espinoza, one of the bosses in charge, has been at The Castle for three and a half years.

"When I arrived here, I was real skinny from using so many drugs. My brother, who was in charge, woke me up at four in the morning the day after I arrived. He was hard on me. He put me on guard duty," recounted Espinoza from his post at the entrance.

He detailed the daily schedule: "At 4:30 in the morning, we wake everyone up who goes to work. At 5, the tortilla makers are the first to start working, and then the others follow. At 6, everyone goes to the first therapy meeting in the therapy room. You make sure the coffee is prepared, and then at 8 or 9, start preparing breakfast. Make sure the vegetables are clean, that the tortilla area is clean, that the cook is there, everything's in order. Everything's being cleaned daily, and anything gone bad is thrown away."

He pointed to a man sitting on a couch across the courtyard.

"That friend over there, he has dementia," Espinoza said. "He forgets where the stairs are. That's why he doesn't move. He doesn't know how to get there. He doesn't know how to go upstairs to the bathroom. If he goes to the bathroom three times, we have to bathe and change him three times."

Espinoza also mentioned that anytime someone has to return following a relapse, they are punished. They have to clean the bathrooms, do the dishes, and do manual labor throughout The Castle until the director says enough.

"Waking them up to do chores at four in the morning is the only punishment here," he emphasized repeatedly. People in positions of authority at The Castle vehemently disavowed the use of physical punishment, even though regular beatings are common practice at traditional anexos.

Arturo Díaz, a psychiatric patient, at The Castle on Jan. 8, 2026. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

When a patient first arrives, they are sent to the detox room on the second floor, where they must spend three days. The psychiatric wing of the building is also on the second floor, as well as the infirmary and a small store to purchase snacks.

Rafael Díaz Castellón, a recovering heroin addict, manages the infirmary. After a year in The Castle, he decided to celebrate. He left and relapsed.

"There wasn't any heroin on the streets anymore; there was only that goddamn fentanyl. And that's what messed up my back, that's what messed me up even more," said Díaz Castellón, as he leaned back in his chair.

Rafael Díaz Castellón, The Castle head of the infirmary in Tijuana, Mexico, on Jan. 8, 2026. (William Savinar/ Courthouse News)

Little by little, Díaz Castellón became hunched over and couldn't stand up straight anymore. He recalled a time when he was too hunched over to look at Rivera, who brought him back to The Castle, in the eyes.

"But that's nothing, that's nothing," said Díaz Castellón. "Some people come here with all sorts of wounds and abscesses. I give them a cleanup. And I give them medicine so they can recover. It's a lifelong process."

"Here, we do the best we can for people. It may not be perfect, but it's the only place that accepts people who are on their last legs. Once they get themselves together, once they clear their heads a bit, they can decide what they want to do with their lives," he continued. "I'm 69 years old, what I want is to live peacefully and to continue supporting these people as much as possible."

"Amen y probecho": Oscar Antonio Monjaras Reyes, chef of The Castle, inside the eating area on Jan. 8, 2026. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)

Oscar Antonio Monjaras Reyes, a recovering crystal meth addict, is the chef of The Castle and cooks for 60 people three times a day. He has been there for two and a half months.

"I want to reintegrate into society with people who don't use drugs," he said, as afternoon light streamed into the dining room. "I want to be surrounded by people who don't use drugs, to work with people who don't use drugs. I don't want to be around anyone or anything that negatively affects my well-being. I want to keep returning to places like this, in order to keep learning more things and to help others. I want to go to meetings and surround myself with people who can teach me more about this path in life, for my own good and for theirs."

The General

For every nighttime run, Rivera likes to make his presence known. He walks the streets with purpose, in black combat boots and a camouflage jacket. His voice, booming and friendly, echoes in the dark. He consciously draws attention to himself, greeting everyone, quick to crack a joke. Being a leader seems to come naturally to him. It is clear that he sees others' potential mirrored in his own recovery.

"When I put on my uniform, I feel like a different person. Even though my mom forced me into the army when I was 14, I ended up liking military life. I was a good soldier. I love my flag. I always wanted to be a general, and now I am, in my own way," Rivera said. "What motivates me is the faith people have in me. Without even knowing me, they give me gas money, medicine, hospital supplies. That is the ultimate proof of faith. I was destined to die from drugs because I didn't fulfill my dreams, but life has given me the opportunity not only to fulfill my own dreams but also those of others."

Marck Rivera, founder of Enfermeros Tácticos, outside of The Castle drug rehab center in Tijuana, Mexico, on Jan. 8, 2026. (William Savinar/Courthouse News)
Categories / Criminal, Features, Health, International

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